In the world of watches, this was my first proper luxury piece. Another post is coming on what “luxury” really means (spoiler: even a Casio counts these days). But I digress. This wasn’t another Bulova. It was better than any of the faux pas from my uni days.
Like many, I got into watches properly during the pandemic. Not just as accessories to flex, but as objects of craft and heritage. I discovered Watchfinder, The Watch Box, Hodinkee… and so, I came to understand Longines’ place among the greats.
I already knew the name. My mother once had a gifted Longines-Wittnauer that she somehow lost. She was heartbroken. When I told her I bought my first Longines, she gently corrected me: “Mine was a Longines-Wittnauer.” That led me to research the historic collaboration between the two brands. Few brands have this kind of story.
My Model
Mine was the 41mm Conquest VHP with a blue ceramic bezel and a concentric guilloché dial, a newer-gen quartz. I researched it for weeks, and when I found one brand-new at a deep discount, I pulled the trigger. There’s so much right with this watch. It falls just shy of the kind of cult status that materialised for the PRX and, to a lesser extent, the Glycine Combat Sub. But with a few design tweaks, it could have gotten there.
The Good
So much is good here. The dial is exceptional. Let’s pause there.
The texture is so refined you can easily miss the concentric radial pattern at first glance. Longines nailed the balance between guilloché and a soft sunburst finish. This is a watch for the man with the corner office babying his W140 Merc. He doesn’t need to prove anything. Bond wears Omega. M wears Longines.
The other buyer? The man who has everything to prove, but is self-aware enough not to buy the Rolex. This watch sits proudly in the “If you know, you know” camp. At the old office job, this one got me into the watch club. Not the Cartier. Not the Tudors. Not even the Omega. This one.
Longines Conquest Heritage watch worn by Ralph Fiennes in SPECTRE
(credit James Bond Lifestyle + Christie Jewelers)
The bracelet fit and finish is great for the price. Simple vertical brushing on an Oyster style bracelet. For the case, no high polish, except on the signed crown. A win here. The ceramic bezel, curved case profile, and tight bracelet tolerances punch well above their weight. Even the pin and collar system (usually a turn-off) is forgivable here. That dial on a heritage Swiss mechanical? Easily triple the price. Fun fact: I tried on my Tudor Heritage Ranger, a mid-2000s Rolex OP, and this all within the same day, and didn't feel much difference in the comfort of these on wrist. The Rolex products articulate slightly better when on the go, but not enough to shout that they are massively more comfortable.
The Precision VHP movement is a feat in itself, like Certina’s Precidrive and other Swatch Group high-accuracy quartz offerings. +/-5 seconds per year, RF sync, jumping hour hand (which I prefer to a GMT complication), red and white accents, and a seconds hand that hits every marker with surgical precision. Oh, and the beveled dark date window with a white surround? Sharp.
Best part? That deep, unsaturated blue. It shifts beautifully in different lighting thanks to the subtle sunburst. Works with everything.
The graduated rehaut is the cherry on top with white 60-minute markers, again, perfectly finished. No dust. No scratches. No marks. Just clean execution.
The Bad
The crown guards. They’re winged, a nice nod to the Longines logo, but they’re sharp. Really sharp. If your wrist isn’t the right shape, this is a deal breaker. Worse, they make the crown tricky to access. A better crown execution would elevate the whole experience.
The lume is just okay, and the oversized 12 and 6 aren’t to my taste. Tudor and Rolex do this better. That said, the mirror finish on those numerals is excellent, especially for this price point. They are so good that I questioned their colour out the box because they reflected the dark room as black. Bravo.
The Ugly (Sort of)
There’s no real ugly, but it’s quartz. And for some, that’s an automatic “no,” no matter how good it is.
Also: the lug-to-lug is over 50mm, which is unnecessary. Longines loves a broad stance, but here it makes a 41 mm watch wear too large. I’d have preferred 40 mm with better-proportioned lugs. Still, I’d rather long lugs than stubby ones. Ask me about my old Tudor Ranger.
Finally, the ceramic bezel won’t be for everyone. I personally prefer the added durability. It gives off serious Seamaster 212.30.41.20.03.001 vibes for a fraction of the price. But remember: it’s a push-pull crown with only 50m water resistance. And they proudly print that "5bar" on the dial in white, as though it’s a flex. Strange move.
Conclusion
There are mounds of The Good, and The Bad and The Ugly are barely there. So where’s mine now?
With a lovely gent named Ben in rural France. When he got it, he was over the moon. And that’s the thing. I bought this piece because I was supposed to. It was the right time. I fell for the spec sheet, the value proposition, the craft, the legacy. Getting some hype for a lot less. "Swiss Made" on the dial. But deep down, I wanted a Seamaster. And this, great as it is, wasn’t that.
If you want a luxury quartz, this is the best I’ve worn to date. You aren't making any real concessions. The VHP lineup is a real testament to the idea that real luxury doesn't have to break the bank.
How many people actually want one of those?
Not sure. But Ben does. So don't settle for less.
Regulars will know where the guilloché obsession went next: Cartier Santos Ronde: An Overlooked Gem.